Pigs and Figs and Truffles, Oh My!

Washington Post Food Critic Tom Sietsema recently wrote a review of Glenelg's Bistro Blanc that was so compelling that I had to make the trip West on Route 32 into Howard County to check it out. While he gave it only two stars, his descriptions of the dishes emerging from former Iron Bridge chef Marc Dixon's kitchen sounded too imaginative to pass up. An hour after walking out of the restaurant, I have some very strong opinions.

First, the positives.

Mr. Sietsema is absolutely right about the food. It is worth the trip and I would make the drive again tomorrow for another plate of Pig & Fig. The tender citrus-braised pork shoulder is served atop perfectly toasted brioche, with black mission figs and vanilla muscato froth. The combination of flavors and textures rivals some of the best dishes I have ever had locally (Cindy Wolf's Charleston in Baltimore) and beyond (David Kinch' Manresa in Los Gatos, California). This is one signature starter that should never leave the menu.

Our esteemed critic also hits the nail on the head with his description of the roasted butternut squash risotto topped with lightly seared scallops and served with toasted pistachios, parmigiano reggiano, truffle oil and fresh sage. This dish is incredibly rich and luxurious, thanks to what I can only imagine is an obscene amount of butter and a generous splash of truffle oil.

But you know what? Sometimes you have to indulge.

And you know what else? Sometimes you have to have fries on the side. Especially when they are roasted garlic, Parmesan and rosemary fries. And it's New Year's Eve Eve.

Mark, my partner in crime, made a wise choice with the Delmonico "Filet," served with smoked "Moody Bleus" polenta, lemon-caper-thyme butter, balsamic-glazed cipolini onions in a red wine glace. I managed to steal a nibble of the filet and enjoyed the crisp crust set against the tender beef. Here gain, Chef Dixon masters the art of contrasting textures and complementary flavors.

Our meal was so good I don't remember anything about the wine. I'm fairly certain I had a Pinot Noir with the Pig & Fig and a Gruner Vetliner with the risotto, but for once in my life, I didn't give a flying fig (hee hee) about what I was drinking. Which was something of a shame, because Bistro Blanc features one of the greatest inventions of all time, the Enomatic wine preservation system, which allows patrons to enjoy glasses of very good wine while enabling the restaurant to make a few bucks on said wine while not opening (and then throwing away) higher end bottles.

Which brings me to the negatives.

Our server, who seemed either distracted or just plain lazy, didn't bother to mention the Enomatic - practically the centerpiece of the dining room and one of the restaurant's differentiating features -- until after I asked about it (and after I heard at least one other server explain the system to two other tables). I inquired about the wine options available in the Enomatic, which were not included on the wine list, and he invited me to "take a field trip" to find out for myself.

Gee, thanks.

He may have been stretched thin because the restaurant seemed short-staffed, but I overheard other tables receiving much better service than we did. Call me difficult, but I only accept that excuse to a certain degree.

I also feel as though the length of time we waited (and waited and waited) between sitting down and placing our order, and receiving our starter and finally being served our entrees, was excessive. The wait was particularly excruciating at the beginning of the meal, because Bistro Blanc does not provide bread for the table, and we were forced to make due with water for an extended period. I understand that complimentary bread costs restaurants a lot of money, but if the kitchen takes its time with food preparation, diners really should be offered something while they wait.

Nitpicks aside, the atmosphere is very comfortable, the food exceeds expectations, and I would highly recommend Bistro Blanc to anyone who enjoys food, doesn't mind a few extra calories and isn't in a hurry. I can't wait to go back. Hopefully the service will be more attentive and we won't have to wait as long to enjoy Chef Dixon's fantastic creations. But even if our next visit to Bistro Blanc is exactly like tonight's, I will walk away well-fed and happy.